Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and visitors equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, Unesco designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a select list of world cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it enters a international community of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and lively culinary scene," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this venerable city comes as no surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the global gaze for what has perennially characterized its essence: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, refined, and elevated to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on many street corners, there are little shops and stalls – little-known treasures that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is precise and involved. The artisan whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their younger generation do not want to take up the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will motivate more people globally to discover these tales and travel to the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
